MENS CLOTHING IN BOLLYWOOD THROUGH THE 60’s, 70’s, AND 80’s.

PROJECT : AN ATTEMPT TO STUDY THE IMPACT OF BOLLYWOOD ON THE STYLE STAMENTS OF A PERIOD.

GUIDE : Ms.SUCHITRA SETH

SUBMITTED BY:

RESHMI SHANKAR ( PG TEXTILES 3RD SEM)
SREEJITH JEEVAN (UG TEXTILES 5RD SEM)


AN OVERVIEW

A split second, a single glimpse can create a passion for a certain look. Once in the darkness of a movie theatre, someone is fascinated by the dress, the presence of the figure on the screen. From that moment, they are driven to make that image their own. It’s the start of a trend.

As in Hollywood, Indian cinema has had a close relationship with the fashion industry, both as a source of inspiration and of marketing. It is impossible to gauge how often a film star by appearing in a particular dress or suit, or perhaps through the use of an accessory, hairstyle or a detail of make up, can provoke millions of imitations and thus create a fad. However there is no question that fashion will be far less influential without the influence of cinema; the work of couturiers and costume designers would be far less effective without those marvelously casual, tough, delicate, cool, beautiful people whom they have to dress-and who intern inspire their contemporaries.

In the early days the wardrobe department consisted mostly of tailors, who made designs chosen by the stars and the producers. The stars began to use their own dressers and advisers, but it is only recently that the specialist dress designers became important. Their budgets are now considerable and the have become celebrities as the fashion and model business boomed in the 1990’s. The first celebrity designer was Bhanu Athaiya, who won an Oscar for her costumes for the film Gandhi in 1990.

When the celluloid began to move, it was in a world or disorder. Ordinary people lined up at the box offices of movie theatres to see melodramatic films, to see a world not necessarily real.

The image of the idols that entrance millions as they move across the screen is determined to a considerable extent by the costume designers (as well as by the designers who dress them for the glare of publicity on screen). The difference between the character, the star and the real person in subject to a retouching process which is scarcely visible; creating the compound identity of the greatness of cinema. The actors and actresses may well continue to play their roles in what should be their private lives has much to do with their clothing.

Hollywood was the center of the film fashion world and it remained so for a long time, but many European talents helped it to its greatness.



INDIAN FASHION – A RECAP

Looking at fashion in the Indian context, the post independence period saw western clothes becoming the norm again for the urban, upper caste male, with Indian clothes reserved for wearing in the home (the vest /kurta worn with a lungi/sarong ) or for strictly formal occasions- the bandgala( lounge suit with a nehru collar ) or the sherwani pyjama. The trend was mirrored in films, with male stars becoming famous for their styles, be it – the ‘debonaire’ Dev Anand’s quaff or Shammi kapoors “Indian elvis”. The greatest super star of hindi movies, Amitabh Bachchan , very tall ,thin, and not conventionally handsome, set the trend that has continued to the present for ‘cool’, outrageously stylish high fashioned for men often eclipsing his female co-stars. Bachchan’s reputation representation was fetishistic , his first appearance usually being of his feet, shod in black leather,as the camera slowly panned his long body. His legs, which were clad in the widest flares or bell bottoms , often impossibly white, Bachchan regularly appeared in a vest, but his body was for action, not offered for display, while his fashionable clothing became his trademark

The action films in the 1980s saw this macho action hero dominate the screen, but this image was replaced in the 1990’s by the short muscular hero with pretty face. Salman Khan, one of the most popular, heroes famous for taking off his clothes several times in each movie to show his pumped body, found frequently wearing gym gear and American sportswear. The sub urban look of Tommy Hilfiger and Nike trainers is the informal uniform while men with double brested suits implied they had formal occasions to attend, showing that men’s clothes as ever are designed either for careers or for leisure , although they are supported with a number of fancy outfits for the song and dance numbers.

The bollywood (Indian film industry) has become an integral part of our country’s identity. Over a period of time, there has been a gradual development in the film industry as well, be it technological or representational, and these changes have influenced the society in one way or the other.

Fashion booms through cinema and every fashion flows right into film, making the cinema a document of its time. Or time itself may become documentary: the trends of former years may be taken up again by the new ones, and the stars from the good old days of the movies can enjoy a comeback.

Fashion does not exist in a vacuum. Society dons clothing every day and that clothing reflects an individual's identity, lifestyle and mood. These personal characteristics are in turn affected by the prevailing social and economic trends whether they are on a local, national or global level. Just as these trends change, our lifestyles and moods are transformed, and so are our fashion choices.
Jeanette Jarnow describes fashion as "the process of change in the styles of dress that are accepted or followed by substantial groups of people at any given time and place". The production of fashion begins with the raw materials which make up the clothing. These include fibers, fabrics, and leathers. Advances in the techniques of producing textiles affect the availability, cost, and wearability of the garment.


DETAILING OF THE STYLES THORUGH THE PERIOD.

In our attempt to see the close connection of bollywood with our everyday lives we have tried to trace the prominent style changes that the “hero’s” of bollywood have brought about in the society between the 70’s and 80’s. Fashion is a continous change and its study requires the backbone of earlier styles, thus creating a context to build up on instead of reinventing the wheel again!

In India, the 40s was a decade marked by the world war II and the post independence era clothing was simple and purely functional. In India, the fashion scenario was very confusing since the century had very conflicting ideologies as the matter of Indian independence was concerned. With the freedom of speech and movement, fashion remained graceful and refined.Mahatma Gandhi had started fashion ‘anarchy’ of sorts with his khadi movement; these garments became a rage- it spoke an entirely different language of fashion and freedom.

However, we may find that the fashion trends in the post independence era within the high society was strongly influenced by the british with the result that western clothes became a status symbol. Due to the western influence the use of angarkhas, chogas and jamas diminished considerably by this time and they had been replaced by the chapkan, achkan and sherwani.

The 50s saw the dawn of art colleges and schools which became places of fashion designing and hence change in silhouettes and patterning were evident though they were not drastic in nature.

The 60s is one of the most shockfilled decades of the century which saw fashion and lifestyle changes that reflected the changing passions of the times. Mens wear also took drastic changes at this point of time in terms of loud prints and patterns, very evidently an influence of the European art and textiles of somewhat the same times. Art movements such as pop art played a major role , directly or indirectly, in the textiles of this era.

New types of materials such as plastic film and coated polyester fabric got popular in these years. The then designers found a need for more ready to wear garments that were cheaper. The sixties was the era that accompanied synthetic materials like nylons , polyesters and rayon.

The 70s is often called the ‘me decade’ since it was one of the most revisited and retro periods after independence. In 1971, VIP smashed the mens underwear market with a shocking advertisement of model Dalip Tahil rescuing a maiden in distress dressed only in briefs and a flowing robe. Since then fashion became another form of self expression with bold colours , giant stripes and flower prints being adapted in tunics with shirts and bell bottoms.

The drug culture was also expanding and it gave rise to fashion of psychadelic colours, tall hazardous shoes and extreme silhouettes.This century also saw the export of traditional material with the result that export surplus was sold within the country itself and hence , international fashion came to India much before the MTV culture . Synthetics became very popular , the disco culture had a profound influence on fashion and the clothes started being more flashy.

The 80s was the era of self consciousness and American designers like Calvin Klein became household names.The ready to wear fashion revolution came to age with the birth of Indian designers , their labels and the introduction of fashion houses. Ritu Beri, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit khosla and a host of others shot into the limelite and their creations became a guide to the Indian men and women. Suddenly to be a fashion designer was considered a respectable profession much unlike the tailors of the 50s. The kurtha also made a comeback with increased length.

Power dressing and the corporate look became a dominant dress code. The influence of cable television became more prominent , evidently shouting out that the world was becoming a smaller place.The teenage market boomed which also had an influence on the mens wear of the times.

In the 1980s , the Indian male started looking back to the royal grandeur and the comfort of ethnic wear. It became fashionable to sport an ethnic look, not just in the house or bedroom , but also for formal occasions or even for work.

The 90s discovered that the Indians were able to dress not only in the styles confirming to the country’s sensibilities but also to western norms.It started as a trickle in the 90s with very high fashion entering Indian market for a very limited period. With the revival of ethnicity, with films inclining more towards Indian fashion, fashion was no longer a means to cover the body but was also about creating an image that had to do with the worlds best brands.

The 21st century spoke the ‘unisex’ language. Tshirts, jeans, casual jackets and many kinds of special sports clothing flooded the silver screen and hence the Indian markets. Some of the running fads or trends also include Capri pants, handbags, sport suits ripped jeans, blazer jackets. Mens and womens tailored business jackets are just two versions of the same garment, but with differences in shape and construction.

Even the previous corporate look is taking a backseat for the more casual and comfortable look. Fancy garments are totally out of the scene in a world where life moves at a very fast pace. Extreme style garments for party and evening wear indicate the changed lifestyle and culture. The old idea of anything can be worn anywhere doesn’t exist anymore. From teens to elderly men, they all have a well set wardrobe with clothes that suit every occasion, so much like a precaution to not be caught in the ‘ill dressed’ or ‘fashion victim ‘ categories.

A QUICK LOOK AT THE PROMINENT FILMS THROUGH THE PERIOD :

1960’s Chaudhvi ka chaand, Mughal-e-aazam, Ganga –jamuna, Dosti, Sangam.
1970’s Khilona, Anand, Haathi mere saathi, Kati patang, Bobby, Aamir-gareeb, Roti kapada aur makaan, Don.
1980’s Qurbani, Karma, Mr.India, Chandni, Disco dancer.
1990’s Dil, Karan arjun, Baazigar, Hum aapke hain kaun, Dilwale dulhaniya le jayenge.



Early 60s

Their characteristic pleats in front and the straight fit indeed speaks of the 60s bollywood fashion. Raj Kapoor, Dilip Kumar, Manoj Kumar, Rajendra Kumar can easily be categorized as they all sported a similar look. Bollywood heroes , particularly in the mid 1900s have demanded for that attention, a reflection of which is very evident in the patterning of the garments they wore. Raj Kapoor , was in fame during the 60s and movies like ‘Jis desh mein ganga behti hein’ indeed created a new look, particularly with the use of materials like cotton and satin silk which was change as far as men’s look is concerned. The bottom hem shaping of the shirt followed a sharp curved shaping from the centre front bottom point curving its way up to the side seam. The looks of the 60s were mainly dominated by the high waisted and straight loose fit bottoms with large crotch length.




Late 60s and 70s


Dev Anand started his career in the late 50s and films such as Baazi, CID, Taxi Driver, Kalapani etc established himself as one of the milestones of Indian cinema. His dressing sense created a wave amongst the public to such an extent that the term ‘dev Anand look’ was coined. A muffler became an inevitable part of the so called ‘Dev Anand wardrobe’. There are movies where he is seen wearing a muffler with a jacket, one of them being ‘Hare Rama Hare Krishna’. The 60s saw a transformation in gents’ garments, particularly in shirt styling. The placket which followed a self fold construction now changed to a pleated one commonly known as the American placket.

Dev anand,with a green scarf draped over a navy blue jacket, his hair dyed black and his skin still taut, Anand retains the charm of a mischievous romantic - the image from his heyday that he has cultivated over a career spanning 60 years.

Credited with introducing several actresses to Bollywood, Anand lived his lover-boy image to the fullest, wooing heroines with songs late into his 50s. When he was too old for that, he turned to making romantic films.

Anand, considered the epitome of the suave, urbane gentleman, was seen as one of the most handsome men in Indian cinema and looked strikingly similar to Hollywood hero Gregory Peck.The puff in his hair and collared shirt became a rage among Indian men, and his trademark singsong delivery and penchant for nodding while speaking were all heavily copied.

The elements that formed an inevitable part of the ‘Devanand wardrobe’ were;
• Collar styling- the centre back portion of the shirt collar was kept upright instead of being left folded as the norm was.
• The collar point – saw a completed exaggerated jump from the regular 2-2.5 inches to a dramatic 6 inch wide styling
• The collar stand was stylized to accommodate two button- button hole fastening from that of a single.
• Double pocket styling came into being
• Along with collar styling came in the existence of broad cuffs (3-4 inches wide) which generously accommodated 2-3 button- button hole fastenings.
• The hem line shaping also saw a change to what is locally referred to as open hem line as seen in the sketch.
• The trousers followed a straight cut with a high waistline accommodating two pleats for waist ease.

Devanand’s role of a guide in the movie Guide (1976) showcased him in a new look, characteristic of which was the black blazer. It’s said that he was banned from wearing it as the crowd went to crazy over it, so much so that they tore apart their clothes or even committed suicide. Such was the excitement it created.


70s look

The early 70s saw the rise of a new bunch of young actors who showcased brilliant talent. This was the era in Hindi cinema when almost 90 percent of the movies turned to color and the styling depicted a truly new character. Colour itself seemed to communicate a lot more on the silver screen and its impact was just not minor.
Dharmendra, Rajesh Khanna , Manoj Kumar, Shashi Kapoor, Amitabh Bacchan and Jithendra were the then new-age actors. Khud Garz, Farz were a few movies that created the Jitendra style statement.
• With him came the classic fitted clothes. He popularized the fitted pants which had no pleats in front, locally known as the ‘ivy’ pant. These pants had a straight cut from the knee. The hem opening was about 12-13”.
• He brought in the technique of double stitching and was locally called as the cow boy shirt.
• He also popularized the use of T shirts, especially the high neck ( 4-5 inches) polo T shirts
• Jitendra was also characterized with the use of white shoes (circular cut).
• There was also a characteristic styling that came in the button placement in the placket. They were now placed in sets of three.
• The short sleeve roll up fashion with the roll up band fastened at the shoulders was also characterized to this period. This was called the khandi flap. He also brought in the trend of pocket placing on the sleeve.

Jithendra and Rajesh Khanna brought in the styles of the long sleeve Indian Kurta with a jawahar collar whereas Dilip Kumar popularized embroidered kurtas.
They also brought about the trend of wearing long shirts with a dart for a tight fit and a belt to accessorize the same at the waist level.
The other styles that Rajesh Khanna popularized also includes the use of double collars and double cuffs with cuff lings. The use of princess seamed shirts were also popularized by him. They also popularized the use trousers without waist bands that also had a styled fly shaping. Rajesh Khanna also brought about the ‘jaali’ embroidery style on kurtas.


80’s

A rage with Indian cine goers in the 1970s and 1980s, Bachchan is still among the most popular actors in the country. Indian Cinema and Indian audiences have matured over the years, and there is an exception to perhaps the ageing character, an exception to anything which is done differently. When it's all put together the movie works out into a wonderful product.

The son of noted Hindi poet, Dr. Harivansh Rai Bachchan, Amitabh Bachchan quit his job as a Kolkata freight broker to join the Hindi film industry in 1969. He made his name in the 1970s playing a "Dirty Harry"- style cop in the ground-breaking movie "Zanjeer".
His best-known film, "Sholay", ran in Bombay for seven years - turning him into an icon in India, much like Elvis Presley was in the West. Millions of young men aped his distinctive hairstyle and people in remote villages rattled off lines from his films.

A serious accident he survived on the sets of "Coolie" in 1982, left the country in a tizzy, forcing state television to telecast hourly medical updates, the first in Indian media history.He was voted the millennium's greatest star of the stage and screen in a BBC online poll three years ago, ahead of Hollywood icons such as Lawrence Olivier, Humphrey Bogart and Charlie Chaplin.
Amitabh bachan, a style icon till date who kick started his career with a box office hit that the film “zanjeer” gave him. A few characteristic features of Amitabh Bachan include:

• The exaggerated high waisted bell bottoms.( had a leg opening of about 32”)
• He also popularized the use of rexin and leather jackets and cross pockets on the jackets.
• The use of striped patterns with a gradation in thickness on shirts. The colors of which usually where red green and blue.
• The use of knee length boots were also popularized in this period.

Aamir Khan, Salman Khan and Shah Rukh Khan who came in the second half of the 80’s reinvented the wheel by bringing back the use of loose clothes and casual fits as was seen during Raj kapoor’s time though not in such an exaggerated fashion as it was then.
And now the trend slowly started changing towards ‘designer’ clothing.

Acid-washed jeans and denim jackets became popular with both men and women. Acid washing is the process of chemically bleaching the denim, breaking down the fiber of material and forcing the dye to fade, thus leaving undertones of the original dye evidenced by pale white streaks or spots on the material. This became associated with the heavy metal trend (called "hair metal" in later decades for the large frizzy coiffures worn by both male and female enthusiasts).

One popular look for men in the late 1980s was Hawaiian shirts. Often they would be complemented with sport coats with stitched looks. They were often gray and white, and were worn for both casual and business settings. When worn in the business setting, they were often worn without a tie.

Leather jackets popularized by Michael Jackson and films like The Lost Boys were often studded and left undone to create a messier look. Oversized, slouch shouldered faded leather jackets with puffy sleeves from Europe caught on.

Gloves, sometimes fingerless, were fairly common.

Late in the decade plain brown aviator jackets made a comeback, styled after World War II fighter pilot jackets. Already popular aviators were joined by other forms of sunglasses. It was not unusual for sunglasses or shades as they were known, to be worn at night.

Earrings became a mainstream fashion for male teenagers. Teen culture held that to pierce the left ear was acceptable for a heterosexual male. A right ear piercing indicated homosexuality. Adults who did not understand the fad worried about how this would affect young men's job prospects as they reached adulthood. Ear piercings left a scar even if they closed from disuse.

In the urban hip-hop communities however, sneakers usually worn unlaced, tons of gold jewelry and headwraps donned the young of the eighties.

Severely bleached and ripped jeans, either manufactured purposely or done by hand, become a popular fashion trend, being a main component of glam metal music acts such as Poison. Although gay men have often been thought of as trendsetters in the fashion world, elements of gay fashion exploded into the mainstream in the 1980s. The outdoor look, such as the wearing of huge hiking boots, jeans and flannel shirts in the city caught on, drag styles for men and butch styles for women spread into straight society.

Theres also the function of the movies as a dream factory. This has really changed only in the last 20 years. Films in the 30’s, 40’s- 60’s did not portray reality but it was more about how life would seem a bed of roses if it was like what was seen in the movies.But its not quite true to say that what the movies show become fashion although it might at first appear this way, considering the power of the desire to imitate. A fashion for which the time is not yet ripe cannot be established even by a film star. Fashion is the spirit of the time and of life. It has to be in the air.